I have used Canon 5D Mark III and C100 and both cameras give a footage where motion is slightly flickering especially under sunlight (My teacher doesn't agree but I always see DSLRs and other cameras with -equal quality or price- have this problem). Shortly: I don't like that picture. It grosses me out. It looks like it lack fps but I know it's not about fps (which is generally 25).

Do you agree with me ? I don't see this with the old movies that were shot with 35mm cameras. Even Super 16 or Super 8 footage have no such an issue. Is it about monitors or the camera itself. I wonder if you see this problem, too. (I also used Nikon D3300, Canon 650D, and other cheaper cameras like these) What is the reason ?

If you agree with me then I will suggest no camera under Canon C300 (supposedly) or Black Magic's expensive ones can give me a really fine, smooth, cinematic look.

migrated from movies.stackexchange.com Apr 3 '17 at 3:28

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    I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because this is asking about a hardware purchase recommendation. – BCdotWEB Apr 2 '17 at 11:58
  • This might be better migrated to videos.stackexchange.com. – user1118321 Apr 3 '17 at 2:28
  • I highly disagree. Try shooting at 60 fps and see how that looks. – NoahL Apr 3 '17 at 5:00
  • If I shoot it at 60 fps then it will be slow motion. It must be 25 fps to get a cinematic look unless I want slow mo specifically. – Emirhan Gürdal Apr 15 '17 at 12:44

There are a number of factors that could cause the effect you've described. It's unclear which you're talking about specifically, but here are the possible problems and their possible solutions:

  1. Interlacing - Video filmed for broadcast is split into 2 interlaced fields. For NTSC, this means that instead of ~30 full frames per second, a camera will first film even lines for ~1/60th of a second, then the odd lines for ~1/60th of a second. Or for PAL, instead of 25 full frames, they'll do even lines for 1/50th of a second, then odd lines for 1/50th of a second. The solution to this problem is to shoot progressive (full) frames.
  2. Rolling Shutter - DSLRs, cell phones, and other types of cameras use a CMOS sensor which scans the field of view from the upper left of the sensor horizontally, going down to the next row of sensor sites until it reaches the bottom left and starts over. This can cause artifacts when objects in the scene move faster than the scanning happens. (Or when the camera is moving.) The solution is to use a camera with a different type of sensor, such as a CCD sensor, or to apply a post process to fix the rolling shutter problem. Most video editing applications have a filter of some sort to correct this.
  3. Shutter angle - When shooting video, you can tell the camera how long you want the shutter to be open for each frame. If you're filming at 25 frames per second, then it can be opened as long as 1/25th of a second. But you can reduce it to, for example, 1/50th of a second while still only shooting 25 frames per second. This may be expressed as either a time value (such as 1/50th of a second) or as an angle, where 360° is the full frame time, 180° is half the frame time, etc.

It's hard to tell from your description which problem you might be encountering, but you can try making changes for each. Canon cameras will allow you to film in either interlaced or progressive modes by simply changing a setting. Likewise with shutter angle. Fixing rolling shutter requires either a different camera or applying a post-process.

The Canon C300 has a CMOS sensor just like the 5D and the C100, so it's probably not the rolling-shutter issue.

  • I tried changing fps and shutter. I understand what you are talking about. But the problems still exists. However, I will try a camera with CCD Sensor. Is there difference in quality of shutter mechanism of different cameras ? Now I think of this question. – Emirhan Gürdal Apr 15 '17 at 12:45

Based on "motion is slightly flickering especially under sunlight" I would venture a guess that you do not use ND filter, hence you are shooting with fast shutter speed. For traditional film-like effect you should be shooting at 1/50 s.

I suggest learning tricks that film camera operators know and use daily, like appropriate shutter speed, appropriate panning speed, appropriate depth of field, following the subject when it moves, usage of neutral density filter, turning off built-in image stabilizer when shooting from a tripod (including panning and tilting), not using shakycam techniques when using a CMOS-based camera, etc.

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