I m recording full HD video in 1080p /30p format with my Nikon D5200 but i find the size of video is to high i.e. 10 GB for an hour. Now i want to compress it to lesser size in the range of 1-2 GB without affecting even a bit of quality so that i can archive it without exhausting my storage drive. I want it in 1080p format with lesser size after compression. As i have recorded 200hr video and still keeping RAW video with my storage which has exhausted it. Is there any software or any solution so that i can convert it to lesser size? Pl help as i havnt found any full proof solution for this. Ur suggestions will heartly be welcomed. I have to use these videos on my large screen tv for teaching purpose.
Current DSLRs use H.264 compression for their video. Optimizing an already compressed image without losing quality is something commonly done for GIF, PNG or JPEG still images, and while it's theoretically possible to optimise compression in existing video files, currently no one bothered to develop the software to do so. The only solution left for you is to recompress your video with your codec of choice.
Don't try lossless codecs
While you won't lose any quality, lossless is only useful if your source material has a very high datarate. You will probably not gain anything compared to your DLSR files. (Your files seem to be about 25Mbit/s. Lossless x265/x264 will give you at least 100-200Mbit/s)
Still, it's good to know that the internal (hardware) codecs of DSLRs are inferior to what your current CPU can do with recent software. But you should also know that any lossy recompression will result in an image that is slightly worse than the original, even if you encode in a higher quality than the original. That being said, here is a list of modern codecs that can compress your files with minimal loss: x264, x265, vp9 and av1 (to be released in 2017).
x264/x265 Settings for recompression with minimal loss
- Encoding mode: constant quality. It will encode in one pass and output the lowest file size for a given quality setting. Your new file will contain variable bitrate video — your original DSLRs files are probably constant bitrate files
- CRF quality setting: Choose a value between 12 and 20 (quality difference will be between indistinguishable and fine-for-the-less-discerning), if the source material is compressed in low quality, you can sometimes go higher than a CRF of 20 without noticing any difference. Incrementing CRF by +6 means about doubling the file size.
- Codec: Compared to x264, x265 compression produces about half the datarate at the same CRF, but it is a lot slower.
- Speed/Compression ratio: Use the
veryslowsetting to get the smallest file. Warning: this might be very slow ;-)
Depending on the above choices and on the complexity of the image and on the efficiency of the codec of your DSLR, your recompressed file will be up to 10 times smaller (probably less).
Handbrake is a nice app that will help you achieve all this. If you prefer the command line you should definitely go with
ffmpeg -i DSLR.MOV -c:v libx265 -preset veryslow -crf 18 -c:a copy recompress.mp4
Without affecting quality, and presuming your CPU and GPU are fast enough, utilizing the x265 / HVEC encoding library may be the best option. This can be done with Handbrake or FFmpeg, it can be a lossless encode, however takes more time to decode and encode on a slow CPU, sometimes causing frame drops while viewing. See Handbrake for more. Also, this question on the UNIX fourm may be of use.
ffmpeg -i INPUT.mkv -c:v libx265 -preset veryslow -x265-params lossless=1 -c:a copy OUTPUT.mkv
Is the command I use. It hasn't been a problem, and is working quite well as I am teaching students Premiere in classes. However, for speed, the raw format or the x264 codec is the best. x265 is the newest and most compressed video format, it works reliably, but not quickly with old CPUs.
without affecting even a bit of quality
Use lossless codecs like Lagarith (implemented by
FFMpeg, not widely supported) or lossless H.264 (implemented in
x264, widely supported as generic H.264 codec).
Try both and see what works better for you.
There are a range of free or lowish cost compression programs available online. I asked a similar question on [PICList](http://www.piclist.com] recently. The following is an extract or portions of some replies. This thread was migrated from SE Photography where it was "OT". Despite the downvotes there or here for whatever reason this is liable to be of significant use to some people with similar needs.
I wish to upload a number of videos to Facebook & You tube (the shame!).
Any suggestions re free or for money WIN10 compatible programs that meet the following need would be welcome. In many cases these are usually of higher resolution / quality / size than is generally required.
The files are 1080p MP4 format, usually "Out of Camera". A web search for converters produced several zillion promising leads and nothing as yet attractive enough. "Free" would be nice (and there are various claims re fully free) but 'sensibly priced' is acceptable if useful enough.*
Windows Moviemaker allegedly runs on WIN10 but attempting to download the allegedly relevant 'essentials' package produced discouraging messages.
I think WinX HD Video Converter Deluxe will do what you want. Not free but reasonable. Their DVD ripper is also very good. https://www.winxdvd.com/specialoffer/index.htm#a3
Ashampoo also has a large variety of high quality but inexpensive software. I'm not sure if they have exactly what you want. You can find some of their stuff here: https://www.ashampoo.com/
Try Handbrake. https://handbrake.fr/
I use vsdc free video editor.
I use WMM. It is pretty smart when it comes to uploading - you can fine tune the parameters or use one of the "canned" ones - and it tells you how much storage (and presumably upload bandwidth) per minute of video is used by whatever you have selected.
I've used "Format Factory" although it's been a while since I needed it. Not sure aout Win10 compatability - I'm on Win7 & linux.
https://www.winxdvd.com/specialoffer/index.htm#a3 Looks reasonable and far more capable than the core task I wanted it for.
from SourceForge there is TEncoder https://sourceforge.net/projects/tencoder/?source=directory very good, simple and fast. Good for batch conversions. For fine tuning the conversion use ffmpeg http://www.ffmpeg.org/
As a first attempt "Handbrake" has made a useful difference and I'll try to check all the free recommendations and maybe the so far single for $ one to see what other capabilities are available. I am an 'obsessive' still photo taker but 'videos happen' along the way and being able to easily put them on the internet is highly desirable.
VLC does a good job at everything to do with media it seems.
I have used Handbrake several times to make backup copies of commercial DVD's.
The user interface is pretty clunky and it took me a while to figure out how to use it and what the best settings were, but once that was sorted out it works as advertised. I have never used it for video file format conversion but I believe it can do that too. It's probably been updated since I last used it a couple of years ago.
I have also heard good things said of Free HD Video Converter - but have not used it myself. http://www.videoconverterfactory.com/free-hd-video-converter/