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4

There are a zillion greenscreen tutorials on YouTube. The basics are simple. 1.Pure green paint or fabric. 2.Even lighting on the green, good lighting technique on the subject. Avoid spills and shadows. 3.Use the highest quality camera, lenses and compression you have available -- but don't freak out unless you're using a lot of translucent objects like ...


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You don't say what you're using to edit these videos, but there may be a better chromakey plugin for your platform than what comes natively. Also, again depending on your platform, most editors will allow you to crop the key area (garbage matte) so that the green screen doesn't have to cover the entire raster, just enough to back the product you're ...


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To reduce or eliminate the greenish reflection on the front of the table, you can buy some dark gray or black construction paper, or something equally non-reflective, cut it to size, and tape it over the 2 dark rectangles on the front of the table. I have 3 different solutions for the foot-shadows on the floor. You could point a semi-dim spotlight ...


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With a good keyer it doesn't matter as much as it may have in the past, but in most cases green is the better choice. Which you choose depends more on where and with what content you do your keying. If you're using equal-band capture, recording and processing -- 4:4:4 for instance -- then it can be a tossup. But any encoding that limits chroma bandwidth -- ...


3

I assume these are home made motion markers in order to track the motion of the head in the shot. This is useful for adding other objects (or images) to the object, therefore the technique is called object tracking. Note: The example given is only useful for 2d tracking, because most 3d solvers needs a minumium of 8 tracking markers around the object (in ...


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Depends on what your definition of good green screen is. In terms of free software to do green screen well...Only one that I can even think of that does keying is Da Vinci Lite which is free from blackmagic's website. It is pretty complex and pro based, but with a little searching around you might find what you want. I am not sure if you can technically ...


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Even a typical lamp with a "daylight"-colored bulb in it can act as a lighting source for your product. I'm sure your boss could spring for one light bulb! If you shoot again with the new lighting, or even without the new lighting, play around with the angle of your product / camera / stool to minimize the reflections.


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I have a couple of suggestions that could be of help: 1) Use a polarizer to reduce reflections. You say your boss won't spring for anything else, but you can pick one up fairly cheaply (like under $20 on amazon). If that's really not an option, you can try using some polarized sunglasses in front of the lens, at least to see if it eliminates the ...


1

With these kinds of things, I suggest not even using a green screen in the first place, especially one that is in an app and casts a green glow on the actors hands or body and picks up on reflections. Its much easier to have, instead, either a green piece of paper (which honestly will not really work in daylight in terms of the key but will at least give you ...


1

Trackers never hurt and there's almost no reason not to use them, but there's no substitute for pre-production and field testing. The only failure is failure to plan. Ideally your markers would be high contrast, however you can place darker green markers on a green screen which can be entirely keyed out if the artist doesn't need them, but will still be ...


1

Lighting could definitely be part of the problem here. Typically, for green screen work, it helps to have a light between yourself and your green screen to get rid of those shadows behind you (sort of like a backlight). To fix your current footage, I'd increase the sensitivity of your chroma key in After Effects, since it looks like AE is essentially ...


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What you're looking for is a difference matte. (Not to be confused with a Color Difference Key which is similar to regular chroma key.) It can certainly be done, though you should know that difference mattes are fairly temperamental. The way it works is by finding the difference between an image and each frame of video, and removing anything that's the ...


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The problem is that my alpha Mask has a feather. Which results in greeen peaking through the Mask. So the only solutions are export an alpha mask with no feather or export the original image with a black or desaturated background.


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Part of it may be the fact you are using JPEG sequences. JPEG isn't a pixel accurate format and you are going to have some differences in block quantization that could potentially result in mismatches. I don't think that is the only issue since it is a bit too regular for it to be the only issue, but I'd try to use an intermediate format that is a bit more ...


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I don't know if this might be an option or even work but, couldn't you get a dark piece of paper or card and create a linear curve from the bottom under the seat to extend to the floor creating a curve just at the end so it looks like part of the chair.


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The best bet is probably a combination of more light and using a flatter exposure. h.264 in particular does very bad with noise levels in shadow as do many CMOS sensors. If you are near the dark end of what the camera can capture, you are going to get lots of noise. The obvious solution is to keep things away from the dark end of what you can capture. ...


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Fake it. Use your preferred compositing application to turn down the exposure value over a specified region. For example, if you're talking about a round spotlight affecting a flat region, create an appropriately shaped ellipse, feather it to taste, and turn down the exposure. If instead you're talking about volumetric lighting (like shining a light ...


1

What you're talking about is essentially a negative light. (There's a scene in the Simpson's where Moe doesn't want his fancy customers seeing Homer and the guys, so he unscrews a lightbulb and it casts negative light over them, leaving them in total blackness.) Unfortunately, they don't exist in real life. So your options are: Light things in such a way ...


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I've got another idea, but it's a little kooky. You light the WHOLE SCENE with spotlights - the fewer the better. On the key spotlight, you add a gel that has an opaque black circle on it. Then as you move that around, that section of darkness will pass over parts of the set/props/actors. For a more focused spot, you could use a bright digital projector ...



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