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With low light levels your brightest signal will be close to the noise floor, so you only really have three options: a camera with better low light performance (although this can only take you so far) More expensive sensors can give a lower noise floor, allowing you to resolve more detail a faster lens As Jason commented: If the widest aperture ...


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It depends on your camera. Some cameras, like the Blackmagic cameras only let you guestimate. In this case, you'll just have to know that the color temperature of an outdoor scene is closer to 5600K, warm tungsten light is closer to 3200K, etc. Then, you'd adjust the image in post to make it more accurate. Using an x-rite color chart with software like ...


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I will often shoot some short footage with a white, gray, and black card for reference. I then use my editor's color correction tools (the Color Board in FCPX, for example), to move the color of those cards to neutral.


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As mentioned above, no. The bulb and circuitry is not set up for it. If you are looking for a cheap solution to home video lighting, go to a hardware store and buy a set of Double Halogen Work Lights With stand. It will run you like $40 and is just as good as any fancy video light for basic stuff.


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Generally speaking, it is not possible to use a camera flash as a light for video. A true flash is a high intensity discharge bulb which produces a very short (1/100 second or shorter), very bright burst of light. It is not designed to be used for constant light output and has insufficient power, durability or cooling to be able to operate as a continuous ...


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There is no "most used". You use whatever is appropriate for the exposure conditions you have and the desired aperture and shutter speed (and ISO, though turning down ISO is almost always better than using an ND filter if it is an option). The more light you have, the more wide open the aperture and the slower the shutter speed, the heavier the weight of ...



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