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8

This "effect" is called Rolling Shutter. It is common in most CMOS camera sensors because they don't capture an instantaneous image, instead they do it progressively over a period of time. CCD sensors do not have this problem as they do have instantaneous capture.


4

It is down to the raster/line speed of the CMOS array in your camera - it does not expose the whole thing at once, it scans from left to right and downwards. For even more amusement google for iPhone propellor videos, such as this one, or in fact any video of oscillating or moving objects. The solution is to get equipment with slightly more upmarket sensor ...


4

The short answer is "No." DVD by definition is limited to 720x480 video with a fairly low bitrate, compressed specifically with MPEG-2. There is absolutely no way to make your HD video look just as good with those constraints. Some DVD players do let you play .mp4, .mkv, or whatever files that happen to be stored on a DVD, but that isn't a standard ...


3

Most modern codecs will support whatever frame rate you throw at them. The choice is more of an artistic decision than a technical one. For the best quality, you should match the frame rate of your source or some even multiple there of. If you can choose on your source, then choose according to the feel you want. 24(23.976) is more "cinematic" and is ...


3

If your source footage is interlaced, deinterlace it. If your progressive frame rate is a constant 23.976, 24, 25, 29.97, or 30 fps, then keep the frame rate as it is, unless you require a very low bitrate and want to halve the frame rate. These are all widely supported frame rates, although other arbitrary frame rates below 30 fps will often work as well. ...


3

You will need a USB Video Capture Device to connect the game to your laptop. In order to also be able to view the game on the TV, you will need 2 splitters for the video and audio and an extra composite cable. You would run the yellow and white game console outputs to the splitters and attach the splitters directly to the Video Capture device. The red ...


2

I have a Zoom H2 and I'm very impressed with the sound quality. It has 4 built-in mics giving it a 360° recording capability. Battery life is poor though so a couple of sets of high-capacity rechargeables is in order.


2

Personally, I would use a Video Capture Card that supports SECAM (such as the Hauppauge model 01087: WinTV-PVR-150 low profile with PAL/SECAM tuner) and simply record it on my PC/Mac/Linux box. [I've actually done this from NTSC VHS tapes to MPEG-2 using a PVR-150 capture card on a Ubuntu Linux box.]


2

I couldn't find specific details, but it appears that ancillary data on SDI in general conforms to SMPTE 291M. I couldn't find any details about the specific implementations used for deck control. It appears like there could potentially be some variation between manufacturers or even particular decks since the ancillary space doesn't seem to be that ...


2

An XLR cable used with an adapter won't give you the audio quality that an all-XLR cable will. If audio quality is really important, I'd buy or borrow an external recorder that takes XLR cables directly. If this isn't an option, pick up an XLR to 1/8" adapter cable. I suggest taping the adapter to the camcorder so it doesn't move around much. (Mic cables ...


2

Answer 3: Use XLR cables to get the audio from the PA to your camcorder. To convert the balanced PA signal to the line signal, take a passive DI-box (aka DI-unit). They are not expensive. You'll get a solid one for less than 50$ by Amazon. More info: DI-Units - Wikipedia DI-Boxes - Amazon.com


2

Your best bet to easily do this is probably to set up two cameras with half the field of view being used. Then simply setup a simple project that can combine the two and encode it for electronic distribution. If you want to do an all digital route, you are still going to need to run an encoding after the fact to get the size down, so doing the combination ...


2

The processor in your camera is not the only thing you need to override for your proposal to work. Consider the focus system, the iris, and the shutter system, and their respective upper and lower performance boundaries. What you are suggesting appears to be a design up idea not an after it was built idea. In other words you need a whole team of engineers at ...


2

The answer is always "More light". The higher the illumination of the sensor (within obvious limits), the less noise or grain. If you must deal only with ambient light -- you can't supplement or fill in -- then open the iris. However, in doing so you trade off depth of field, so it's a balancing act. Generally, avoid increasing preamp 'gain' to compensate ...


2

There are a couple ways you could go about this. If you can do it in a single take, then you can record the audio and video at the same time and then simply sync them up and all will be well in the world. If you want to be able to do multiple takes, then what you should do is do it the way they make music videos. Do the audio first, make your recording ...


2

AJ Henderson and Craig have excellent answers. I'd just like to add my own knowledge about making miniatures look full-size. As far as I can tell, there are 4 factors that make a miniature look, well, miniature. 1) Lighting. If the train is supposed to look like it's outside, shoot it outside or next to a window that sun is coming through. Sunlight looks ...


1

I like Henderson's answer. I'll add two suggestions: consider using stock footage of the 'real' train. I don't think that would be cheating -- even pro filmmakers use stock footage frequently. The real art is in the editing; that's where the story- telling comes from. If you used stock footage of the train (one example: ...


1

The easiest way to make it look real would be to film a real train and then use a model of the same kind of train engine. You could use a macro lens to try and get a good shot, but the camera elevation will likely be too high still (unless the track is elevated). Putting the actual person on the tracks would be hard with iMovie as well since I don't know ...


1

Adobe Encore can do what you are looking for. It is included with Adobe Premiere. You can either buy a copy of CS6 or if you only need it for the one project, you can use Creative Cloud to obtain it for just a month or two. In general, you will find most DVD authoring software comes in fairly expensive packages. It's not as easy as you would think to do ...


1

The first thing is to make sure any gain is off. Gain on a video camera is like high ISO on a digital still camera. It increases the noise floor significantly and causes much more noise in even a good image. This should make the camera make other adjustments to try to preserve the exposure with a lower noise floor. If there is still too much noise, it ...


1

You should check your recorded video with MediaInfo. Regarding your problem, it shows, if the durations of the video and the audio is the same or not, if the interleave of the audio (the starting offset) is set correctly in which sampling rate your audio was recorded. Then, I would import your video file into Audacity (which imports only the audio, of ...


1

I can't really say anything else beyond what Neil said...that's great info...but I'll throw this into the mix. If you're handy with electronics (or know someone who is), try making this adapter from off-the-shelf parts at Radio Shack.


1

The worst part of transferring old VHS to DVD is that it has to be done in real time as VHS is linear access and analog. Here are two ways I know of that work. One will eat your time the other will eat your wallet. 1) for about $35 or less you can get a transfer device which connects the output of your VHS machine into a USB interface to your computer. ...


1

to answer your question: basic setup: camera, scene, computer with editing suite (after effects, premiere, vegas, final cut express, quicktime) You must trigger record frame every second or predifined interval of time, setup your editing timeline at 25 fps and import your footage. if you are doing frames you must import frames interpet them and put it on ...


1

In order to duplicate the display you would need extra hardware in your machine anyway, otherwise you will still get lag, so I would instead recommend simply upgrading your existing machine - it will be cheaper, and the spinoff is that you will have a better machine. The machine I am currently writing on has a reasonable GeForce graphics card, quad core i5 ...


1

The hyperdeck shuttle is a small, lightweight and easy-to-use field recorder. The downside it just works with expensive SSD volumes. A possible alternative could be the Atomos Ninja. - Pros: Runs with SSD, but also with cheap and capacious 2.5-inch-HDDs. Built-in Touch-LCD-screen. Double battery connectors. The drives and batteries are hot-swapable. Cons: ...


1

I'd recommend to add an optional i/o board (AV-HS04M7 or AV-HS04M1 for external CG) to have simultaneous program output w/o graphics (clean feed) and still have fully functional preview & program outputs. You can use ProPresenter or any template-based CG with key&fill outputs, which is quite simple to control. E.g. CasparCG. You can even create a ...


1

In general: It depends on your signals and the signalchain. With your setup you will need at least a signalsplitter, a capture device, a capture machine and big harddiscs. But first you have to clarify whats the projector input? What components and wiring do you use? What's output of the presenter laptop? Etc. Then we can give you specific recommendations. ...


1

What I have done in the past is to use a DA on the output of the laptop. One output to the projector and another one to the recording device. The problem I faced afterwords is that in the chain I had a video switcher and, since we recorded both audio and video, the audio was noticeable ahead. That's a problem if you also have a camera recording the ...


1

In some sense, shooting to a raw format with something like a Red camera or an Alexa does what you want. The camera doesn't do any in-camera image processing to alter the image (except maybe compression), leaving all the data in the original sensor color space. You can then use your computer to do whatever you want to generate a final image. ISO can ...



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